I say attempting because we didn’t make it around Mt
Taranaki this trip, I don’t think we even saw the mountain at all. This is
because we were trying to walk the track during an Ex Tropical cyclone after
some of the wettest weather the country has seen.
The plan was to walk around the mountain in four days,
staying in the North Islands highest DoC hut, hiking mostly higher tracks. This
wasn’t to be. When we got to the DoC office at Dawsons falls we spoke to a warden
about our plans to go up to Syme hut (highest in the North Island) and carry on
around the mountain. We were quickly informed that there was forecast to be
130kph winds that high up the mountain and the safety limit for hiking was
69kph. With our big packs weighing 20kg each we would likely get blown off our
feet. And that was just the beginning. We were told that we may not make the
hut on the next day’s walk; we could get blocked by a river 10 minutes from the
hut if the rain were to worsen (which it did). And if by chance we got past
that river, there were several more on the next day, any one of which we could
find ourselves unable to cross. At the time we said we would risk it, we had
the gear to sleep in the bush if need be.
So we set off from Dawson’s falls to Lake Dive hut, via
the high track, hoping to stay out of the mud on the low track. The track was
very well maintained, but very wet. As we climbed the visibility lowered, the
rain increased, and the temperature dropped. Other than the weather the walk
was great, I’m sure there are amazing views, not that we could see further than
50m for much of the time.
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Average visibility for the day |
At the highest part of the climb, approximately 1500m the
wind was very strong, and basically at the limit of safety, so I can see why we
were warned about going any higher. This was also the coldest section of the
walk, the rain was pouring down hard and cold, which wasn’t too much of a
problem, except that it was running down my jacket, onto my non water proof
gloves. Every few minutes I could make a fist and squeeze out the freezing
water. Eventually the gloves were doing more harm than good and my hands warmed
up after taking them off. The other issue was the water in the track; 100mm in
most places, up to about 300mm deep. It seemed like every other step flushed
new cold water in to freeze my feet. There was no getting away from it.
Eventually the soles of my feet were numb. It’s an odd, uncomfortable, heavy
feeling to hike on numb feet.
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So much water, but not too much mud |
Eventually we made it to Lake Dive Hut, a very nice hut,
all to ourselves, seems no one else was crazy enough to hike during a cyclone.
We got the fire going, but never really got it roaring. It warmed the hut up
well, but wasn’t enough to properly dry anything. We managed to get a view of
what I believe is Fathoms Peak during a break in the clouds which was cool to
see. Overnight the storm really rolled in, driving wind and rain almost all
night. This vindicated the decision to turn back, and abandon going around the
mountain. With the heavy rain the rivers would definitely be up, and we may or
may not have gotten across. I didn’t want to get almost to a hut only to camp
in the wind and rain and have to walk back the next day. Even more so I didn’t
want to put us in the position of trying to cross a river that we shouldn’t. It
would prove nothing to get across, whether we make it across a swollen river or
not, it’s still a bad call.
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I think this is Fathoms Peak, but I can't be sure |
The next day we spent some time chopping fire wood for
the hut before setting off back to the car via the low track. Wet again, but
not particularly muddy the track had a few wind fall and wash outs but
otherwise was very well maintained. I was very impressed with the quality of
the tracks. Both the low and high track took us 3 and a half hours and we made
it back to the car in one piece.
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DoC had already build a walk-around this wash out |
It was disappointing not to be able to do the hike as we
had wanted to, but we chose the safe option, so we can come back next year,
maybe January or February for better weather.
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Still an enjoyable hike |